Replacing a Mandolin bridge
Q: I have a harmony mandolin made around
early 60s. the bridge collapsed and broke. i bought a replacement
bridge, being way to high for the action I cut it down so the action
is close to what is was before. my problem now is I cant get it
tuned again. i have an electric tuner, every thing is flat. nothing
is even close. any ideas what i should do, what I'm doing wrong.
Any help would be a help.
Thank you, Roy
A: Play the first harmonic by touching
a string at its exact center and plucking it. Then play that same
string at the twelfth fret. If the harmonic is sharp to the fretted
note, move the bridge toward the fingerboard. If the harmonic is
flat to the fretted note, move the bridge toward the tailpiece.
The proper string length is different for each course, or pair of
strings. The top of most mandolin bridges is staggered so that all
the strings can be properly compensated, and play perfectly in tune,
and the bridge be pleasingly straight. Some of the old Harmonys
and some of the cheapest new replacement bridges are not compensated.
With these you split the difference. Some courses will be slightly
flat and some slightly sharp.
It is of the utmost importance that the bottom of the
bridge fit the top exactly. Take the strings off. Put sticky backed
180 grit sandpaper on the mandolin where the bridge goes. Place
the bridge and mark the placement on the sandpaper with black magic
marker. The approximate placement will be double the measurement
from the nut to the twelfth fret plus 1/16". The sliding method,
above, will give you the exact placement. Scrub the bridge back
and forth until there are no gaps between the feet and the top.
It is very easy to "rock" as you sand. This rounds the bottom of
the feet. Stewart-MacDonald sells a wheeled stabilizing mechanism
that solves this problem and saves a lot of time. You can also use
a scraper to cut off the roundness. There are more pounds per square
inch on the heel of a woman's high heeled shoe than on the foundation
of the Empire State Building. If the bridge bottom fits the top
perfectly the weight of the strings is properly distributed. The
mandolin sounds it's best and everyone is happy. An unfitted bridge
focuses all the weight on the spots where the bridge does touch
the top. The top can be dented, deformed or cracked. A slick trick
with an adjustable bridge is to replace only the broken top and
reuse the old bottom that fits.
On a 60s Harmony you are probably also due for fret
filing, or even a plane and refret or a neck reset. The warp of
the neck and the action set can also effect your intonation. Remember
to use fresh strings for sliding the bridge. Old strings vibrate
unevenly and will give you a false bridge placement.
Steve Mason
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