Bacon mandolin repair
Q: Hello from Australia Steve,
I have a Bacon Belmont mandolin, probably dating from 40s or early
50s. The centrew top seam has split, cleanly, and the back is starting
to separate from the sides. My intention was to remove the back,
glue and cleat the top and the replace the back after first making
some sort of jig to hold everything square. Does that sound okay
so far?
But here's the tricky bit. These mandos have parallel bracing. Exactly
parallel, each brace about 1" out from the centre, running
the full length of the mandolin, and HUGE. Each brace is about 3/8"
wide and about 3/4" deep. I'm tempted to remove the braces
while the back's off, thin them down and brace it like a Gibson
A-50. However, if I do that, I'll lose the Bacon's own character,
and make it into a Gibson under another name. If I don't, I suspect
the huge braces will kill any tone.
What would you do?
Thank you for your help.
David
A: Dear David,
The top seam has opened because the top has shrunk with age. It
must be closed by, somehow, making the top bigger. Hanging it over
a steaming bath tub can do wonders, but if that doesn't work you
will have to add some wood; to the crack or to the edge, either
way, removing the back won't do the job. Are you familiar with luthiers
clamps or "through pull" clamps? They are L shaped pieces
of wood with a guitar tuner mounted on the upright side and a small
hole in the foot. You run an E string through the tuner, through
the hole, through the crack, through a cleat, through a caul, and
then loop the string through a string ball to tie it off. You slap
some glue on the cleat and tighten the string with the tuner. Leave
enough slack string on the inside to make it easy to pull out after
the cleat is dry. If you use multiple luthiers clamps, be sure that
you don't get slack string from one patch under the next patch.
Most centerlines that I have dealt with will steam closed. Then,
I clamp them gently across the top and cleat them with clamps through
the sound hole or luthiers clamps. Let it dry, mess with the finish
and your done.
The braces are another problem. It would be logical to fix the top
and then string it up and listen to it. If it sounds great, you
are done. If it is thin or tinny, attacking the braces will help.
You will need the back off to deal with the braces. Check for the
grain alignment and the fit and tightness of the joints on the old
braces. If they pass inspection, take a sharp chisel and reshape
them. 3/8" wide is fine, but I would cut them down to a half
inch under the bridge and then taper them to nothing at the ends.
If they are loose or crappy go ahead and replace them. Recently
we have gone hog wild with replacing braces. We X braced an old
Washburn Parlor guitar and X braced an old flat back mandolin. I've
even X braced an old flat back Harmony. They always sound much better
and richer but they never change as much as you expect them to.
Steve Mason
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